The turtles of Vorovoro

from w
From Fiji Times Villagers warned against turtles Times
Thursday, December 31, 2009

VILLAGERS have been warned against catching turtles this festive season following reports of the illegal harvesting of turtles in some coastal villages of Macuata North Fisheries Officer Aminio Raimuria said that unless there was an exemption authorised by the minister, no turtle could be harvested. "This is the festive season and there will be feasting going on and as turtle meat is a traditional food for coastal villages, we fear illegal harvesting could happen," he said."The four months from November through to January are breeding season for turtles and the purpose of the moratorium on the harvest of turtles is to improve their numbers."

The district's resources committee said that turtles were being harvested for events that were not traditionally important. Committee treasurer Joseva Rasiga said that in a meeting last week they decided the reckless harvesting of turtles must stop. "People are harvesting turtles for any purpose, for birthdays and for events that are not traditionally important," Mr Rasiga said. "We are worried that with this trend continuing, turtle numbers within the district will deplete and when we really need turtles for a traditional event they will be hard to find."
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(from my earlier posting on babasiga)
Turtle calling was part of the Mali Island culture, though not today. Some elderly people still remember the time. The people had chants that were sung from hilltops, such as Vatugolegole above the sandy beach on Vorovoro. A priest from Ligaulevu village led the chant and the chant was connected with a traditional religious view.
Ravete vete ni Toga,
vude mai mera
mai rai na marama sola e.
Ravete is the leader of the turtles, come out of the deep and show yourselves to our special visitors. Adi Timaima, who came from Mali and was the wife of the former Tui Wailevu, told me that a branch of the special usi tree had to be thrown into the sea and then many turtles and a shark will appear in the sea to form a parade for the visitors.

On one end of Vorovoro beach is a special turtle cave for breeding turtles. This faces the deep ocean of the Mali passage where big international ships come to Malau Port in Labasa. In the months of December and January female turtles used to come to the beach of Vorovoro Island to lay their eggs. It is an experience for life time to witness such events. Onlookers did not disturb the turtles as they laid their eggs. The turtle was regarded as a kind of god or queen.
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from the Tribewanted website:

An extraordinary Christmas surprise on Vorovoro
Community → Blogs from Vorovoro → Jenny Cahill's blog

By Jenny Cahill,
Around midnight on Christmas eve, the tanoa was still at high tide, and there were still many a talanoa being told and laughs being shared on the grog mat. I had just woken up from having dozed off while putting Bethany to bed and was getting ready to head back to the grog mat when I heard a strange sound coming from the jungle near the volleyball court. Ssshhhrrrttttt, sssshhhhrrrrttt – the sound was soft and came again and again, although not at regular intervals. The sound was exactly like the familiar soft swish of a Fijian sasa broom brushing the sand and dirt from a woven mat.

I crept close, but stopped short of crossing the creek. The sound kept coming, and was so much like the familiar sound of sweeping that I could think of nothing else it could be – although I knew that there was no way that someone was in the bush sweeping at midnight on Christmas Eve – I surely would have heard about that cultural oddity if that were the case!

My mind went logically through my mental catalogue of all the creatures on Vorovoro that could possibly be making this noise. Rat – no. Cat – no. Crab – no. Spider – um, definitely hope not! After the previous afternoon’s many talanoa (story) about the presence of the ancestors on Vorovoro, I was more than a little convinced that it was something that could not be logically explained making this sound. I said aloud, “Hello? Anybody there?” – (I know, I know – how original). No response. I crept closer, straining my eyes but could see nothing, but the sound kept coming again and again – ssshhhrrrtttt, ssshhhrrrrtttt. All I could picture was someone sweeping – did the ancestors come out at night to do some island clean up to express their gratitude for the previous day’s annual clean up of their burial sites?
Incredibly curious by now (and maybe just a little bit freaked out!), I walked down to the Grand Bure, where Jimmy, Bebe, Jone, Api, and Tomisi were holding down the grog mat. I popped my head in and did my best to sound casual: “Um, hey guys… um, there’s a strange, um, sound coming from the jungle, um, behind Bebe’s house. Um, it, um, kinda sounds like someone’s, um, well, like someone is sweeping.” A few strange looks came my way – I think they weren’t sure if I was being serious or not. Slowly, a few ideas of what it could be were offered – all of which I ruled out. At some point in midst of this lambchopped brainstorming session, I heard someone say the word “turtle” and instantly felt my heart quicken to double time – that was IT! I knew it!

I couldn’t get back to the jungle quick enough then. Jimmy came with me with a light and sure enough, there was a huge and magnificent mama turtle digging a hole with her back flippers, the sand flinging across the dried leaves and making a ssshhrrrrtttt sound as it landed.

She was massive – at least 2 1/2 feet across. She was working hard at digging, and didn’t notice us until we crept into her line of sight while trying to get a good video shot. Even though we were quite a distance away from her, she still seemed nervous, and our suspicious of this were confirmed when she abandoned that hole and started moving as though to go back to sea. We quickly took our leave at that point, hoping that she would decide to stay and finish after all.

We walked down the beach, basking in the excitement of this discovery and listening carefully for any other sounds that would indicate that there was more egg laying preparation going on. I was giddy – it was a secret hope of mine that I would have a chance to see a sea turtle while living in Fiji – but this was beyond anything I had hoped for. That it was happening on the eve of such an important day, a day that marked the start of several days of celebration and fellowship, felt like a very special gift.

When we walked back by, she had found another spot nearby and was digging a new hole. This time, we stayed at her back and out of her line of sight. The whole process took a couple hours to complete. First she dug a deep hole with her back flippers, spraying sand several feet to each side. When she was ready to lay the eggs, she positioned herself over the hole and her body rhythmically pulsed as she deposited egg after egg after egg. As she worked to lay the eggs, I thought about the tiny turtles who would emerge in a couple months, perhaps as many as a 100. I thought about the arduous work she was putting forth for the children she would never see, of which only a few would survive to adulthood. It took her about 20 minutes to deposit all the eggs, and then she began the long, laborious work of filling the hole and spreading the sand, leaves, and rock so that it would look as if she had never been there.

By the time she finally decided it was good enough, she was clearly exhausted. She was taking long rests between bursts of sand swishing, and each stroke of her flipper was weaker and slower than the one before. When she finally turned herself toward the sea, she mustered up the last bit of energy she had left to pull her heavy body through the soft, yielding sand down to the harder packed sand of the beach. She aimed herself at the sea and used her massive flippers to propel herself forward, but the sand was soft and loose and gave way under her weight. She would try and rest, try and rest again, but only moved an inch or two at best with each attempt. Each effort she made buried her a little deeper in the sand.

Watching her struggle to return to the sea, I felt terrible, knowing that her work had left her more tired and weak than it normally would have, because she had had to do the work of digging two holes instead of just one. I felt responsible for this. After several minutes of watching her struggle, Tomosi and I decided to lend a hand. We positioned ourselves behind her and pushed as hard as we could. She was so massive – we couldn’t move her even a bit. But then she started to move her flippers, trying to gain traction on the loose sand, and so as we pushed hard from behind she started moving forward. She slowly moved toward where the sand was harder and packed tightly. As soon as she made it there, she scrambled faster than I would have ever thought possible for a sea turtle to move on land. Tomosi and I scrambled to our feet, pointed our torches in her direction, and were just able to glimpse her as she slipped into the sea.

There are a few events that happen in one’s life that are truly magical, and this was one of them for me. As long as I can remember I’ve been in awe of these beautiful creatures and their remarkable birth stories. Truly a wonderful way to welcome in Christmas day!

In two months time, we will watch the turtle nursery carefully for the baby turtles to emerge – I will camp out there if necessary to get video to share with you all!
Best wishes to everyone reading for a joyous New Year full of reasons to smile, laugh, and celebrate! Much love from our family to yours!

Jenny

Problem with reading blogs in Fiji

from w
Looks like we need to take a break from posting. I was surprised when the stats counter indicated that fewer Fiji readers were accessing babasiga. Well, now I've been told why. From Fiji it seems that anyone wanting to read blogs gets a message that they will be monitored if they want to read a blog and have to go through another site first. Monitored? Most blogs are innocuous and well-meaning.

And just one more for the road: go to the tribewanted website for Jimbo's farewell interview from Vorovoro Island. Now that is one honest but good story - the eco-tourism venture near Labasa.

Tribewanted still going strong

from w,
Ben Keene writes about responsible tourism in the tribewanted site where a small eco-tourism venture continues on Mali Island, near Labasa. I like his ideas but there are too many questions Ben!

Responsible and fairly traded tourism at Tribewanted
Community → Ben Keene's blog
By bengazi, Vorovoro, Fiji
Posted 5 days ago

Fair trade is an attempt to slow down economic activity to match the pace of culture; it is commerce with a conscience. For those of us who travel, it doesn’t take long to realize that the resilience of culture will wear thin and eventually break when it is made to conform to the speed of commerce.

We must ask, in the words of Barack Obama “not only is this profitable, but is it right?”

At Tribewanted we aim to maintain economic growth for ourselves and the local community without sacrificing the fundamental rights, dignity, and health of the land and people involved. We realize that there is and seek to understand the intimate link between culture and the environment and we take every opportunity to reach our decisions based on relevant environmental, financial, and social issues, the three elements of social enterprise.

Our decision making process in regards to fair trade and responsible tourism is based not only on developed and undeveloped but also on the reality that discrimination and exploitation exists throughout all levels of society and that commerce when practiced with a conscience can be a powerful tool in the fight to protect the environment and preserve and empower all cultures.

In the evolving spaces of responsible tourism and social networking, the answers are very rarely straight forward. Making decisions based on these principles can take time. To help us facilitate a more holistic decision making process we have implemented a few internal guidelines for everybody involved with our project.

Is it good for the environment both local and global?

•What effect will the proposal have on the Tribewanted’s carbon footprint?
•Will the proposal encourage greater levels of energy efficiency in the local community?
•Will the proposal encourage the use of renewable energy in the local community?
•Does the proposal maximise opportunities for effecient use of resources?
•Does the proposal favor the use of renewable local resources including recycled materials?
•Does the proposal have a plan for minimizing waste and waste disposal?
•Does the proposal include a plan for minimizing water use and encouraging water efficiency?
Is it good for the people?

•Does the decision address the needs of all members of the local/Tribewanted community?
•What effect will this decision have on the development of a healthy, equitable, and involved local/Tribewanted community?
•What effect will the decision have on the safety of the Tribewanted village?
•What effect will this decision have on the cultural heritage of local community?
•Will the proposal help improve the educational resources of the local/Tribewnated community?
Is it economically sustainable?

•How much ongoing maintenance will the proposal require and does it minimize those costs?
•Does the proposal show an eventual return on investment?
•Can the proposal be structured to provide other opportunities for generating revenue?
•Will the proposal enhance the value of the Tribewanted experience and/or Tribewanted’s assets including the natural beauty of the local environment?
•Will the proposal encourage additional investment in the region?
•Do all involved parties fully understand the proposal and it’s implications?
•Based on feedback from all parties, can the proposal be improved upon in any way?
Since the start of the project in September 2006 we have had successes and failures. Everyday, lessons are learned that help us come closer to realizing our goals. Maintaining a positive triple bottom line in Fiji has been and will continue to be a delicate balancing act and though we occasionally experience set backs, over the long run significant progress has been made.

The future of Tribewanted: Vorovoro is bright and our efforts to promote responsible tourism and actively engage in developing a sustainable eco-community on Vorovoro are met with widespread enthusiasm from the local community. Here is a short list of some of our achievements many of which would have been impossible were it not for the close relationship that we have worked hard to establish with the local people.

•Regular village meetings and workshops are organised to discuss ideas and proposals.
•Community groups work closely with us in developing conservation and management plans. We work to empower local communities to manage their own resources.
•Wherever possible, food and supplies for the camp are purchased from local sources.
•Tribemembers are encouraged to build relationships with community members through involvement in local schools, purchasing goods from local shops and spending time in villages.
•Tribewanted works to develop alternative livelihoods in the communities in which we work, to reduce the fishing pressure on fragile marine ecosystems and to try to improve the economic status of poor and isolated communities. Recent examples of these initiatives have included a vegetable co-op with the youth group from Nakawaga, an arts, crafts, and souvenir business to support local women.
•Tribewanted, with support from our team and tribe members, has provided over $10,000 for school scholarships over the past 2 1/2 years. These scholarships allow children whose families cannot afford school fees to receive education from the primary up to the university level.
•Island team members carry out beach clean-ups in partnership with local communities.
•Fresh water use is minimized, and water is conserved wherever possible.
•All waste is sorted and disposed of responsibly.
•Island team members and the kitchen staff use only biodegradable cleaning products.
•Tribe members are encouraged to offset carbon emissions from their flights to Fiji
•In the Tribewanted village, all electricity is produced using sustainable technologies.
•A strong commitment to to teaching sustainability through our regular workshops, seminars, and forum discussions, The Mali District School Green Club, and H.O.P.E. Labasa
•Working with local villagers and students from the University of the South Pacific, and in cooperation with the WCS and WWF, Tribewanted monitors the impacts of fishing activities on marine systems and species. By training villagers to record the size, number, species, and weight of catches regularly brought into villages by local fishermen. This data is then used to track changes in species populations and marine health, and to develop appropriate conservation strategies.

In order to help accelerate our progress we have also committed to the following objectives:
•Off-setting carbon emissions on flights for the Tribewanted team to and within Fiji as well as emissions resulting from the development and running of the Vorovoro community by purchasing carbon offsets. We also commit to encourage all tribe members to do the same.
•To work in partnership with Tui Mali and local fishing villages, considering the impact of each and every one of the tribe’s actions on these communities.
•To support local community projects both financially and with volunteers under the guidance of development experts.
•To generate local employment.
•To consider with each decision the tribe makes, the impact on the terrestrial and marine environments.
•To promote and raise awareness for sustainable and earth friendly living and travel as a real option for both tourists and communities around the world.
•Continue to support our local, family-run, taxi and hotel partners.
•Continue to help our members’ to respect and apreciate this environmentally and culturally sensitive region of Fiji through cultural classes, a comprehensive orientation, and informal discussions both on and off the island.
•Encourage our business partners to adopt more comprehensive environmental policies.
Everyday we all make decisions that impact our environment and those around us. To often these decisions discount or ignore their environmental repercussions.

Implementing a fair trade policy has helped us to be more responsible not only in our activities here in Fiji but also in our own lives off the island as we become more aware of the environmental implications of our actions. We hope that reading this will inspire you to take responsibility for your own actions as well. If you have any questions please feel free to contact us island@tribewanted.com

A sea change and Vorovoro

from w
The tribewanted project continues on Vorovoro Island near Labasa. Here is a posting from a sea-change family, which is on the tribewanted website. While many visitors to Fiji continue to stay in the large resorts, eat expensive food, etc. with little interaction with the local people except in a tourist-staff worker relationsip, those who go to Vorovoro experience a real change in lifestyle and get to know the people from Vorovoro and Mali islands who are Peceli's relations.
A family perspective of Vorovoro...
Community → Blogs from Vorovoro → Jenny Cahill's blogPhotos
By Jenny Cahill,
Posted 1 day ago
Just a couple months before arriving on Vorovoro, we made some exciting and scary major life changes in our family. Prior to these changes, we were like so many other middle class American families –we were stressed and burned out parents trying to squeeze the most out of the few hours we had per week together as a family, trying our best to raise kind, loving, conscientious, and capable children in a culture where it seemed everything was against our goals.

Despite our best efforts to keep our family a #1 priority, we had become slaves to busy schedules and endless obligations. Jimmy spent most of his time at a demanding and unfulfilling job that, while it provided well for us financially, left him with little time or energy foranything else. The job of raising and schooling our 3 kiddos fell primarily to me, and we felt that we were just enduring life, rather than enjoying it. Jimmy and I longed for a more balanced life, where we could both be present in our family while also sustaining our family financially in ways that fulfilled us rather than drained us. After years of this exhausting battle, we decided to change it all. With no solid plan in mind, we said goodbye to the 13 year career, the security, the generous paycheck. We traded financial security for happiness, fulfillment. We stepped into faith that we couldmake the life we wanted -simple, uncluttered, intentional, with time and energy for ourselves and our family,earning money through skills that we enjoy. We chose a summer of living in Vorovoro as a springboard for our family as we entered this exciting, new chapter of our lives.

Our family has been on Vorovoro for 6 ½ weeks now, and sadly, have just under 4 weeks more to go. Our time here has been the most intensely joyous time of our lives. We fled here from a culture that thrives on productivity, efficiency, and impersonal relationships, our hearts hungry for something that we did not yet know, but hungry just the same. Within days, maybe even hours, of setting foot on Vorovoro, our hunger had begun to satiate, and now I would say our hearts are content and full in ways they have never been before. Everything about this place is salve to the heart, food for the soul. Never before have we felt so connected to each other and to ourselves. Surrounded in beauty, laughter, and song, one cannot help but to see clearly how Western culture has gone wrong, how the hectic schedules and pressures of American life leave little room for the things nourish us our souls. It is this contrast that gives strength to our intentions to change the way we live our life in America, intentions that we brought with us to Vorovoro, hoping that we would find something here that would help us sustain those intentions in our life back home. We have found exactly what we were hoping for, and so much more. The unique community that is Vorovoro is amazing in ways that I find I just cannot describe.

The fellow tribe members we have spent time with have been just amazing – older folks with wisdom and stories to share, young travelers who impress us with their insight and maturity – remarkable role models for my children, and ourselves. Our Fijian family – warm hearts, open arms, hearty laughs. Their enthusiasm and joy are authentic and sincere, their playfulness and love of life are incredibly contagious. The ideals of the project areso in line with our own visions. It has beenhugelyrewarding to be part of a work in progress and see the results of your own hard work at the end of each day. The island allows freedom and independence for my children – they have grown in ways I never anticipated. Timid at first about meeting so many new people, they are now usually the first to meet and greet the new arrivals, eager to show them around the island.

Tribe members and Fijian family alike join in their playfulness – there is always someone willing to guide, listen, play, or with whom to simply share a laugh or an adventure. The line between work and play just doesn’t exist on Vorovoro – everything is exciting and fun. They join in on projects and discussions, their ideas and efforts are respected and appreciated. They are made to feel important – the kindness, gentleness, patience, and respect with which they have been treated havemade them aware of how capable they are. They move in and out of daily activities – working with the ladies in the kitchen, grating coconut, chopping paupau, or baking bread, or maybe clearing brush, catching bait, or weaving coconut leaves with the men. They’ve all formed their own close relationships with various members of our Fijian family.

They live their own lives here, set their own schedules, make their own goals – I have become aware of how much they are capable of. It has been inspiring and affirming to me to watch my children grow, become comfortable with new people and experiences, challenge themselves and see projects through to completion. As I hear their laughter ring through the village, when I see the joy they bring to others with their smiles and questions, when I listen to them tell me about the things they have learned from watching and talking to other people, I am filled with gratitude. More than ever before, I understand the old wise saying that goes: “It takes a village to raise a child.” Truer words have never been spoken.

Our time on Vorovoro has given us gifts that will be a part of us forever – we have experienced enduring and strong connections to ourselves, to each other, and to our goals and intentions for our family. We have formed relationships that will last the rest of our lives. The important lessons of slowing down, laughing much, and enjoying the moment we are in have become a part of us. Sega naleqa! A world away from our other life and the distractions that come with it, immersedin meaningful work and interactions, no longer running on the proverbial hamster wheel, we are beginning to learn to listen, really listen. And we like what we hear.Au lomaniiko, Vorovoro.Vinakavakalevu na wisdom.

Nemani from Mali Island

from w
Tribewanted continues to thrive on Vorovoro Island with the help of many local Fijian people mainly from Mali Island. Here's an interview with Nemani as posted on Tribewanted website.
The Hammock Society Interview with Nemani
→ James Kerridge

Hahaha… fresh like bread?...

Yes indeed, rising up like yeast is one of our younger talents on the island, ladies and gentlemen I bring to you Mr. 6-Pack!

Eeeeeeeeeee! Bula sia everyone.

Name and rank?

My name is Nemani and I work here in the kitchen on Vorovoro.

I thought your name was Lemony, for ages I was calling you Lemony and telling tribe members that was your name… why didn’t you tell me I was saying it wrong?

No no no, how can I correct you? Oh my God! You know, in Fijian culture, in the old way, we don’t tell someone if they make a mistake like that, they have to learn themselves.

Beautiful and frustrating in equal amounts. You say you work in the kitchen but that’s a little misleading, you do much, much, much, more.

Vinaka.

It’s true, stop being shy and tell tribe some more…

OK, I spend some of my time doing shopping for the tribe. We go to town on Wednesday and Saturday. I go to Labasa market, I know how to speak in Hindi and Fijian and English too. The market sellers see the white people and try to charge more money so they can keep more money… they sell for $6 but see you and sell for $8.

A whopping 33% increase.

So… I see that… and I can stop that because I speak in all the languages. Help save money for the project because food in Fiji is getting very expensive, all prices going up.

The market gets really hectic on Saturday, does this make your job more difficult?

No, I like the market and the people. On Saturday you can find the big fish, see strange shapes moving around in containers… very funny place to be. People always making joke and laughing, doesn’t matter that its busy.

How many plastic bags do you return with?

You try to trick me Jim? You know I don’t need any plastic bag in the island, I use the eco-bag. If you buy some milk and butter from the supermarket they given you one bag for the butter, one for the milk and then put into another plastic bag… oh my God! I don’t need that, too much rubbish already in Fiji.

Why do people throw rubbish everywhere spoiling the beautiful land?

They don’t think about what they are doing, when you attend Class 4 they teach you about the plastic, it takes 1,000 years to rust away… quite along time to keep plastic in the water. And what about the fish and everything? They eat the plastic and die, very bad. I think the people must be stupid or something. Or they must be too tired to pick it up and put it in the rubbish bin.

Sometimes, when I go to town on the boat and its low tide you can count all the plastic bags stuck in the mangroves. The closer you get to town, the more bags there are… it makes me sad. I think maybe they’ve heard the story of an island made from plastic rubbish and so they want to make one too!

A plastic island! Oh my God!

And back on Vorovoro, you’ve also been leading some cultural classes haven’t you?

I’m doing my own coconut class in the island, show you how to climb the coconut tree, its not a very hard job.

How high can you climb?

I can climb maybe thirty/forty feet. How high can you climb Mr. President?...

One hundred feet, easy peasy.

Hahahahahaha… after we climb we husk the coconut, grate the coconut, we can eat the coconut, drink the coconut.

Just be careful not to get hit by a coconut!

Hahahahahahaha…

Is it true that there are crabs in Fiji that climb coconut trees?

Yeah, its true. Sometimes the octopus will climb the tree too.

No way!

Yeah, its true hahahahaha…

You’re also the Manager of the Hammock Society.

I’m very proud for that.

But I’m not sure you’re the right brand image, look at you… you’re ripped! Where’s the relaxed wobble? Its pure muscle…

This muscle is not from exercise on the beach, this is from climbing the coconut tree and pounding the kava. I am the Hammock Society Manager.

You must have a secret gym somewhere?

Before I had my secret gym and now I don’t have any.

Hmmmmmm… very, very suspicious…

I don’t want to get caught exercising and make the Hammock Society name go down. I’m not doing any training anymore, only climbing coconut tree and pounding kava.

What were you training for?

I train for the rugby. I just play two times this year, I miss all the technique because I work here and there is a lot of reserves in my team. I hide my rugby boots so no one takes them, my brother took them once and I couldn’t play, so now I hide them all the time.

Is this lobster tattoo on your chest part of the rugby club?

This is not a lobster, it’s a scorpion Jim!

Oh how silly of me, my mistake…

I got this one year ago when I was 18. You know the scorpion it got the poison, is very small but it can bite people so its just like me… I’m not a very big man but I’m dangerous.

Hahahahaha… what would you like to be when you’re older?

I want to be a rugby player. I want to play 15s. In Labasa, the ground is very hard, you get hurt every time, some part of the ground is like gravel.

How do you become a professional rugby player?

You play in your local club then trial for Mucuata province, after that go play in Suva with Mucuata, Latouka, Nadi… against each other… so they pick from there who is the best and go to Fiji.

Would they look at schools?

Sometime they do that, get a scholarship for overseas to play rugby. But I finish school when I think I was 16 and then I harvest the sugarcane. Its very far away from home, maybe two miles by foot, hold your machete with you, your bag, your foods and walk. Leave at four, reach there five thirty… start to cut sugarcane, 11 o’clock back home. Do this for six months.

That’s a pretty short working day if you forget about the travel. Fijians have a reputation for enjoying life rather than work, do you think this is true?

The business and Fijian life can’t go together because Fiji… Fiji time… stay in Fiji use Fiji time. When you work in town you have to rush every time. You can see this in Labasa town… some people just roaming around, stop in the corner and laugh and joking but working people move differently.

You clearly love your job, but what does a young Fijian lad get up to on a Saturday night?

I just spend time with my family because all other times I am with the tribe.

Well, you’ve become one of the most popular members of Team Fiji, the tribe adore you… don’t get a big head.

Eeeeeeeeeeeeeeee… I enjoy meeting every people from every other country. Its very happy for us gang to stay here and know each other, its very nice. I learn a lot of new music… I learn to play “Say Tonight” (Eagle Eye Cherry) and I remember my friend Matt teach me how to play “Look How Far We’ve Come” by Matchbox Twenty. In Labasa we just have Rihanna, Chris Brown, ACon, but tribe members come with ipods… oh my God… 28,000 songs inside the ipod… keep on listening, keep on listening… lots of reggae.

Do you have ipods in Labasa?

We just have the 4GB ipod, not very big… costs $165.

I think they’re fake as well.

Yeah maybe. I have two.

Two fake ones, sounds like a boob job.

What job?...

Never mind… any last message for the readers out there?

I am still single!

How can we end it there! Would you marry a European girl?

Yeah… hahahahaha…

What would your family say? Do they want you to marry a Fijian?

If they mind, I don’t mind hahahahaha eeeeeeeeeeeeeee. Live in Fiji, be happy together.

Happily ever after. Nemani, my Manger of the Hammock Society, it’s a pleasure to work and joke around with you all week long but for goodness sakes, don’t let me catch you exercising.

Don’t worry Jim, chill out, don’t work out.

Go Hammocks!

Raijeli from Vorovoro

from w
Here's a delightful interview from tribewanted and Vorovoro Island. Raijeli is talking.
The Hammock Society Interview with Jelly
Community → Hammock Society Interviews → James Kerridge's blog
By Jimbo, ,
Posted 6 days ago
Calling out across the waves to all the people around the world, coming in live from the hammocks of Vorovoro… welcome to Hammock Society FM. And today, I bring you Vorovoro’s very own Beyonce… introducing to the whole world… Jelly.

My name not Jelly hahahahahahaha… Raijeli, like Rachel, not Jelly.

Excuse me, for the readers out there it’s pronounced ‘Chel-li’.

Bula sia everybody.

So… you’re a Mali girl, born and bred?

Yes. My mother is Francis and my father is Poasa. I was born here.

On Vorovoro… like a turtle?

No, hahahahahaha… in Labasa hospital.

Were you educated here?

Yes, I went to Mali District School… then to Suva, stay with Tui Mali and school there before coming back with his wife to All Saints Secondary School.

What was the best school?

Suva. Because All Saints is too strict, too much discipline. You have to wear uniform… long skirt…. plat your hair, keep it nice, Suva more relaxed.

I see you have a big blonde afro… what would your headmistress say now?

Hahahahahahahaha… I don’t know.

What do you use to dye your hair? Is it some sort of coral?

No! My hair is real. I was born blonde, yes. It come down from my great grandmother… that’s what I heard. My nieces are blonde too.

What about your children?

I don’t have any children hahahahahahaha.

Why?

I am not married, I am still single.

How old are you?

I am 26 years old.

The biological clock is looming… are you watching the boats full of new tribe members, seeing if there’s a potential husband onboard?

Hahahahahahaha…

Or maybe you have a boyfriend from Mali Island?

Nooooooo… you cannot eat breadfruit curry with breadfruit.

What a beautiful metaphor for inbreeding.

We’re all related in Mali.

(section deleted)

Do you play any (other) instruments?

The organ… the ukulele.

Many talents, are you in a band?

No, I play in the church. It’s called the Revival Fellowship Christian Church in Labasa, maybe hundred people go.

Any crowd-surfing when you play?

Eh!

When you play, do people go nuts and start jumping up and down and bouncing around?

No! It is a church. We sing songs, play music, read the bible, make prayers.

So we’re looking for a good, loving, caring, strong, musically gifted, God loving man. Does that sound good?

Yes hahahahahahahaha…

In the meantime, you’ll be here working on Vorovoro…

I’ll be here in the kitchen… helping cooking, baking, washing… everything in the kitchen. The tribe bring lots of new recipes which we try to cook, look very nice.

Taste very nice too. Sometimes around the dining area, there is no talking cos everyone is just enjoying the food so much. All you can hear is the cutlery bouncing off the plates. Sometimes, in my eagerness, I miss my mouth and make a mess.

Hahahahahahaha… like when you eat pawpaw curry.

Ahhhhhhh… p-a-w-p-a-w c-u-r-r-y… I like to say it slow… it makes it sound even more delicious. I could eat it everyday. What’s your favorite meal?

Fish, baked fish. Cut them up, just the flesh and marinate them in garlic and onion… then sprinkle it in salt, wrap it in banana leaf and put it in the oven. Keep checking oven till looks nice, looks cooked.

And when you’re not cooking and laughing your flip flops off, you’re playing volleyball…

Yes, I like to play for fun.

Do you play any other sports?

Bit of netball, some touch rugby.

Any football/soccer?

No, don’t like getting my legs kicked.

The tribe have been here for two and a half years now, what big differences has it made to you and your family?

We now have new power called Jenny Wind Turbine in my house.

Ah yes, a gift from Alan Kelly – a very generous tribemember indeed.

Before we use a diesel generator, it makes lots of noise but Jenny is quiet.

What does she power?

A TV and DVD and lights. I only use it watch rugby sevens.

Have you got a refridgerator?

No, we never have one. We just keep the food in containers, something like that… or pick the food and cook it.

You have your very own supermarket here, what’s growing on the island?

Breadfruit, cassava, vundi…

Vundi! I love Vundi.

You try it?...

Yes, it’s manna from heaven. A big fat banana that you boil in water and the water turns to syrup.

The ants like it too… hahahahahaha…

I bet they do. What else grows here?

Bananas, pawpaw, avocado, mango.

Wow. There’s no need for the evil Tescos Supermarket chain to come here. Vorovoro is very happy thank you very much.

Nice life. We go fishing too, use the hermit crab as bait, throw the fishing line, catch the fish, bite it’s head and kill it… you have to be careful otherwise it might bite your lip… finish hahahahaha… throw it in the basket.

Are we talking about men here or fish… like fish fish?

Fish hahahahahahaha…

Phew! And when you bite it’s head, what does it taste like?

Seawater.

What if you catch a really big fish, bigger than your mouth?

Bang them on the ground, on the rocks.

Do you catch anything else?

We catch crabs too.

Are we talking about men?

No! Crabs! Hahahahahaha… we go to other end of the island on the full moon, in the mangroves, wait for the tide just about to go out. You just have to put your hand on the back of the crab. If you’re too slow… the crab will run off or bite your finger!

Have you been bitten?

Yes. I break off the claw from the crab and it opens up.

So here you are disarming crabs, crushing fish heads with your bare teeth… is there anything that scares you?

The frogs, they live here. I don’t like the frogs, the skin all bumpy.

All the better to put them in your bed!

No! Hahahahahahahahaha… I am part of the Hammock Society too. I will just bring the cake to the Hammock Society.

Sounds good to me, any last words to the tribe readers out there?

God bless and Go Hammocks!

And if you’re a good, loving, caring, strong, musically gifted, sporty, Christian who wants to save this blonde bombshell from gnarly frogs and live in paradise… then please send a photo and a little bit about yourself.

Hahahahahahahahahaha…

Until nest time readers… chill out, don’t work out

Tribewanted continues on Vorovoro

from w
We pop into the tribewanted site occasionally though we have never been members. It's mainly because of our relationships with the people of Mali Island who are closely related. Peceli has met some of the tribewanted team on two visits to Vorovoro. Here is some news posted yesterday. The funeral described of a young man aged 31, gives little detail of what really happened, why he died, and that is concerning. Our family from Vatuadova attended the funeral as the young man was related.

Islands as Arks: re-discovering Vorovoro
Community → Blogs from Vorovoro → Ben Keene's blog
By Bengazi, Vorovoro, Fiji Posted 1 day ago
………….
University of the South Pacific Ethno bio-diversity study begins
As I am sure you will read on Ben Katz’s blog – our sustainability manager was able to recently persuade a team of five students and lecturers to visit Vorovoro to begin a study of local knowledge of Vorovoro’s reefs. The goal is that after this initial research more students will return to extend the study, building up detailed knowledge of the islands marine environments so that both the knowledge and the reefs can be preserved for future generations.

At sevusevu on tuesday (Tui Mali’s weekly visit to Vorovoro) the USP team presented their two day findings to chief, team, tribe members, and the Prisons Commissioner for the South of Fiji (as Tui Mali’s guest). Teddy Fong, the team leader from USP, spoke of ‘islands as arks’, of how we can see the whole cycle of life on and around an island – and how they provide a rare opportunity to see global ecosystems on a micro scale. When we first looked to come to Vorovoro, I remember thinking something not disimilar although not as scientifically put – that on Vorovoro, we can see so easily the full cycle of life and its biodiversity, and that is why it is the ideal place to educate, inspire and make connections. We will post the full report of their survey online when it is complete and I hope that the partnership will grow from here.
‘’’’’’
The 11th Hour: a holistic sustainability workshop
After a full meke class on Thursday morning (with Crimestopper even introducing a new head wiggling style), Ben Katz lead a discussion on tribe members attitudes and involvement with sustainable living. Interestingly all those present had been involved through their work at home in some way: Jodie as a sales rep for a recycling company, Louis from Holland knows a lot about liquid nitrogen and even sells CO2, Paula from Italy sells bikini’s (thus saving on extra clothing…), Becky had been involved in Environmental & Energy Law, Moya ran the eco-car fleet for Estee Lauder, Sophie had produced Radio Campaigns on green issues, and our very own Katz had run a sustainable landscaping business.

From Hybrids to Shampoos to Greenwashing to defining sustainability, Re-designing Design itself and becoming re-connected with our environment, we covered a lot of ground. The third compost loo is being re-decorated by the tribe with eco facts for what you can do easily at home.

Later in the afternoon, as the showers began, we settled down in the Great Bure with scones and sugared tea to watch The 11th hour, the most compelling environmental documentary I’ve seen – following the insights of the world’s most eminent scientists into the state of planet today and what must be done to prevent catastrophe. The closing comments of the film are made by an indigenous indian chief who speaks very plainly that no matter what, the earth will survive, the question is whether we want to survive with it.

A community in mourning
News came early in the week that Mosese’s (one of our boat captains) younger brother had tragically passed away at the age of 31. Peni was a fit young man, who met his lovely wife whilst visiting Vorovoro one afternoon last year, and since begun a new life in Nakawaga village. No one seems to know why he dropped down so suddenly last week – all the villagers can say is that his wife had been saying that Peni had told her in the days before his death that he “would soon be going to a far off place.”
Marau left early in the week to start helping the village prepare for the significant funeral. I travelled with the family on Friday morning and arrived to a village full of people quietly preparing for a heavy day. The two hour service was followed by the short pilgrimage to the village grave site on the hill, and there in the midday heat, 150 gathered – wailing, singing hymns and shoveling thick heavy mud into Peni’s final resting place. I don’t think I’ve ever been part of something like that – where you can feel the communal shift in emotion for a man who passed too soon to one of quiet acceptance for all except the immediate family, as the flowers were placed on his mud and rock make-shift grave.

Life – and death – on these beautiful islands, a story we’re fortunate to be part of.
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Paintings of Vorovoro and Pacific Harbour

from w
Two paintings hang in the sitting room next to the garage - in acrylic and they were made some time ago. One from Peceli )with a bit of help from his teacher!) one from me. Vorovoro Island. Pacific Harbour Arts Village. I was taking a small painting class for adults in our home those days and Peceli decided he could paint too!

Tribewanted and an artist

from w
Clicking here and there on the tribewanted site mainly to see how they have survived the brutal weather in Fiji lately, I found a story about an artist's project with the tribewanted gang on Vorovoro and fund-raising for the kids of Mali District School. The website explains the screen-printing project and the colourful stools that are marketed in aid of the Mali school. Vina'a va'alevu. Way to go, Kaz Brecher!

Stencilling is a natural process for Fijians as this is the way the masi barkcloth has the brown and black designed painted on, and screen-printing is a way to use this process. When I taught art in Fiji during the 60/70s I introduced screen printing to the children and some of the Labasa boys and girls won some major prizes with their work and we took trip down to Suva for the prize-giving.

Make my day, Tui Mali

from w
It was a lovely surprise to read the comment on the last posting and then to talk on the phone to Tui Mali. Salt of the earth, Fiji people like the Tui Mali. We feel respect and affection for him. Then I looked up the tribewanted website and found a recent interview from one of the eco-tourism guys. Fun to read, some things serious too. A lovely story. Then we remember back to the early days and our visits to Tacirua back in the 60s and the on-going adventures.
Here is the piece from tribewanted:

Interview with Tui Mali
By Jimbo, , Posted 11 days ago

Calling out across the Pacific waves to the Christmas massive, all the mulled wine drinkers and Jesus believers, all the tribe around the world… welcome to Hammock Society FM. For this special Crimbo edition I have gone straight to the top, some of you may have presented suvusevu to him, it is none other than the Chief of the Almighty Hammock Society, the one and only… Tui Mali.

Bula sia tribe.
Well Tui, here we are… me and you and a tanoa full of grog sitting on your veranda.
High tide for you Timoci, drink up… hehehehehehehe.
(Clap… gulp, gulp, gulp, gulp, gulp… clap, clap, clap) Ahhhhh, strong mix…
I used to work as a barman in Suva. I spent three years, three years in the bar… serving people, drinking beer and all. Make cocktails, everything there mmmm.
So after this bowl of grog we can fill it up with a mojito? Maybe a tequila sunrise?
Here, this a Malua Bus… high tide, drink up… hehehehehehehe.
(Clap… gulp, gulp, gulp, gulp, gulp, gulp, gulp, gulp… clap, clap, clap) I can see a pattern developing here.
After the bar, was working on the wharf and from there I joined the Cable & Wireless ship when they needed a crew in 1971. My first trip was going to Darwin, after those big hurricane that strike Darwin. After we came up to Darwin… ohhh… place was flat like a pancake… mmmm… knocked down by the big hurricane. I spent about 26 years in the ship… mmmm… start as a Deck Boy and finish as a Quarter Master.

Most sailors have tattoos, do you have any?

No, only memories and feelings tattooed on my brain… on my heart.

When did you get married?

I married before I joined Cable & Wireless, meet in Suva and that’s where we got married. You spend a lot of time away working on a ship, very hard.

Sound like you’re well travelled?

Well I visited many countries, many places… the UK… very cold place, stayed in Hawaii for 10 years, much hotter. We got two ships here, one stationed in Fiji and the other one in Hawaii. So you spend eight months here, four months off and eight months in Hawaii. Sail all over the world.

Did you encounter any pirates?

Mmmm…there are places where there are pirates… mmmm… near the Philippines, they know many boats have only few staff on, very easy to rob. We get ready with hose, ready to shoot water but no one come.

While you were sailing all over the world, did you ever think about your future, that you would take over and become the Tui Mali?

Well… when I was young I really don’t understand the chief thing. I only know I’m gonna look after myself. When I grow a bit older… my father telling me about staying in the village as chief of Mali. When he pass away… I was still in the ship, mmmm… so Poasa was holding the title for me. When I came back, he gave everything to me… so that’s when I’m holding it now.

One day a sailor, the next day a chief…

Oh yeah, that’s a very hard thing for me. After 26 years, when I went through a village and I hear people asking “who is this man, first time I see him?” The problem on my side too, I don’t know them. So we both use the same thing, sooooo…. I try something, so they can know me and I know them. So it take along time… one years… two years… three years… mmmm… I have to go through all villages… walk to Nakawaga, Ligulevu, Vesi, Matailabasa… get to know each other.

Was your wife happy to have you to herself after all those years?.

My wife still working in Suva Grammar School. Well I told her… Anna, I put in my resignation to the Captain. I want to go home, plant cassava hehehehehehehe. I told my wife… see, don’t hold me to long over here, make sure I go straight home… to Vorovoro. You stay, you carry on and do your job, I’m going. I left her in Suva after one week, I stayed in Vorovoro for about nine… ten months, no contact, no nothing. So… on December before the school break I went back to see her. She told me I’ve got a school in Labasa to go, she got a release letter from the Suva Grammar School. We arrange for our luggage from Suva to be brought over to Labasa, we got a big container truck and load everything inside and that’s where we are now. Talo!

(Clap… gulp, gulp, gulp, gulp, gulp… clap, clap, clap) I’ll drink and you talk… carry on…

Before Ben came over, I was around in Vorovoro and I was looking for a partner to help build Vorovoro up. I work with Tevita, build a backpackers something like that, you know, we ask the Government what to prepare to give us some help. I found out: it’s very hard, I don’t have that money. So we stop. One day Tevita told me “You look after your life, the world will be coming here sometime.” You know, it’s like a dream… days are gone, years are coming… when NLTB and Ulai came over and said “Uncle, what about if I put up a website to put Vorovoro in?”. Same time… NLTB put the island on the internet. Suddenly Ben came in. He brought on this idea of Tribewanted… and when he told me about the idea… mmmm… I don’t know, I said “OK Ben, first of all I receive it, you come, make sure you think of me, I think of you, don’t forget me!” Hehehehehehehehehe…

In the book ‘Paradise or Bust’, it claims you were approached shortly afterwards with a bigger deal…

Yeah, after Ben came, this American company come in, this TV show, what you call?…
Survivor…They come on the sea plane. They were looking for an island with beach facing north, the open sea.

Did they bring some kava and present a sevusevu?

They bring the money with them. They say… “you give your island, plenty money here to pay you”. I say the problem is… I already got somebody here, and he’s gone… and he’ll be back sometime, I cannot afford to say “yes” to you because I say “yes” to him.

So you turned down a lucrative deal based on a bundle of grog and a hand shake!?

Plenty of people in this world would take the bigger cash offer, after all, no contracts had been signed yet…

Hehehehehe… I want to show Ben… the real heart here, when I say it to you… yes, it means yes.

Any regrets?

When, I was sill working in Suva as a barman… my father he retired from work and he asked me “OK, I’m going home, I want to build a house… plant… I want to go by myself with Poasa. Can you look after you mother, two brother and sister here?” I said yes. For five years, he left home… no contact, no nothing. After that five years, he came back one day and he say “OK, thank you very much for looking after your mother, your sister, your bother. Well, I built and I plant and everything is ready, now I’m coming to take your mother with me.” When he about to leave me he told me a story about what he found in Vorovoro… “You know, there’s treasure but I’m too old too get it, if I was younger like you I could get it. You go and work when you’re young, then come home to find the treasure.” Hehehehehehe…

Cool, a treasure hunt… it feels like The Goonies movie…

When I finished my work in the ship, I come to Vorovoro and look up and down for the money. So I start to weed the place, I cut all the place, I plant anything that can grow looking for treasure… but now I think I found the treasure…

A giant treasure chest packed full of rubies, chalices ‘n’ gold!

It’s people from around the world that come to visit this place. My tribe, that is the treasure my father talked of. People often equate money to richness, but there are different types of richness… I feel very proud of my tribe. You know, it’s not easy nowadays to see people of different colours and cultures live together but in Vorovoro people all over the world do this. There are no lines between visitor and Fijian, everybody is the same here, one tribe, one family in Vorovoro. Hehehehehehehe…

And usually, on Tuesdays, you visit Vorovoro and we have a traditional Fijian ceremony where the new arrivals present their kava to you…

When you present sevusevu to me, I welcome you in to my family, I receive you to be a member… of my family. When people ask me… “Tui Mali what about your hotels and your resorts?” Oh no, I don’t have any hotels or resorts. “What about all the kavalagi (white) people who live on Vorovoro?” Ohhhhh, they are my family. There are no visitors there. Timoci, I think you need a drink… talo!

(Clap… gulp, gulp, gulp, gulp, gulp… clap, clap, clap) You make me drink, next you’ll be making me meke…

Hehehehehehehehe… I feel proud when people see the tribe perform the meke… when the Fijians sing… you know where to put your hands, your arms, your head to the Fijian words. Well… people all over are asking me now for the tribe to come and meke. They want to see it with their own eyes. The Prison Officer saw the tribe meke in All Saints Secondary School, and he told me “Oh Tui Mali, if I knew from the first your tribe could do the meke, I would of sent you with all your tribe to meke in Suva” I told him… the tribe is there anytime, you want us, we come.

We certainly will. I hear on the coconut wireless that chiefs from other regions now refer to you as the ‘Chief of the World’ because of the Tribewanted project?

Hehehehehehehe… maybe it’s true, I don’t know.

Is it true that you’re part of the Great Council of Chiefs?

Yes. There are about 14 provinces… in Fiji. You’ve got be elected in the provincial council. If you are elected there then you can go in. There are three in each province… what’s that… 42 or something and four people elected by the Prime Minister.
Fiji is currently being run by the military… Commodore Bainimarama or ‘Bananaman’ as he’s more commonly known…
Bainimarama, when he came in… he cancelled the Great Council of Chiefs. He put himself at the top. On December 2006 just after the coup, we were called to Suva, the Great Council of Chiefs… we were all together to send the motion to Bainimarama to come for the meeting. He announced he wasn’t going to come… he said “it’s better for them to go and have a bucket of home-brew and drink it under the mango tree”… hehehehehehehehe… And now, last month, he sends an invitation letter to come for a meeting, he pay for a ticket… I think it’s better for me to drink some home-brew under the mango tree… hehehehehehehehe. I don’t want to go, thank you very much.

Fiji has a history of political instability, the last coup almost ended Tribewanted in its first year. What are your feelings regarding the future for Fiji?

Hmmmm, well… at the moment you know… people know plenty things but the basic thing is that people have to come down, go low, try to start from the bottom. Right down to the ground here, we talk, we build, we build, we build… maybe we build something good. If you start from the top, it’s very hard.

That makes sense to me. But what doesn’t make sense Tui Mali is the punishment I received back in July, alongside fellow Hammock Society members: Ben Titley and Sosi… for the alleged ‘Frog Bombings!’ There was no evidence that we placed frogs in girl’s beds but were found guilty by the tribe in a Mickey Mouse court and handed over to you, Chief of the Hammock Society… and what did you do…

Did you do it Timoci?...

Eeeeeeer…. you know I can’t lie to you Tui Mali. I eeeeeerrrr, yeah, I did it.
Talo! Here’s a big bilo, drink up hehehehehehehehe…

(Clap… gulp, gulp, gulp, gulp, gulp, gulp, gulp, gulp, gulp, gulp… clap, clap, clap)
Well, the punishment I gave was big, maybe very heavy…

Yep, carrying a giant, wooden telephone pole to your home, digging a hole and erecting was a touch heavy on the shoulders.

I was thinking, this was a good time to bring everyone together. All Team Fiji were there to help you, give hands, the rest of the tribe helped in my gardens… it was a good day for us eh? The post is still standing, you are still standing hehehehehehe…
If you need any more heavy work done by the tribe, just let me know and I’ll put some more frogs in people’s beds!
Hehehehehehehehehe…

Well, my mouth has gone numb from all the grog, I’m feeling woozy… do you have a final message for tribe?

Well, the Christmas season in Fiji… we are looking at a family time. So… the message from me, to all the members wherever you are: make sure you bring all the family together… so when you are together there, and we are here… we are beginning to build a big family all over the world. Hold hands, be strong, move together as one. Vina’a va’a levu. Happy Christmas. Talo Timoci!

Merry Crimbo everybody… all the tribe family. Go Hammocks! (Clap… gulp, gulp, gulp, gulp, gulp… clap, clap, clap) The frogs are coming, the frogs are coming, the frogs are coming…

When vavalagis dance the meke

the pics are from http://www.flickr.com/groups/tribewanted/pool/
from w
Certainly this is a first - a group of vavalagi visitors to Fiji perform mekes at a Fijian traditional gathering such as Macuata Day in Naduri! Way to go - instead of tourists sitting down watching the locals perform their dances. Shows there is a good cultural exchange and a patience to learn the dances, to dress up, go the distance.

from the Tribewanted website:
Macuata Day
Community → David Randall's blog
By Kai Viti, ,
Posted 4 days ago
Bula sia tribe.

Last week was a full on cultural week for the tribe here on Vorovoro. All the tribal chief’s of the Macuata region were having a four day meeting in Nadori. On the Monday we had the Sevu Sevu so Tui Mali could leave for Nadori early Tuesday morning. We were to meet up with him on the following Friday to perform meke for the chiefs on their day of celebration, Macuata day.

So the week begun with the tribe eager to learn and perfect the meke for our performance on Friday. It is a great honour to be invited to a gathering of chiefs and to perform a traditional Fijian dance to them. So the tribe were all very excited and determined to get the meke well and truly ingrained into their psyche. We split into men and women so the girls could do a fan meke and the boys would do the vuikimalua and the katuba nivucu, commonly known to us as the 1 to 6. The moves are easy but there are a lot of intricacies that make it frustrating to learn. [Moves can be very similar but have very different endings which is a tad confusing. ] The girls were taught by Va until she had to leave on Wednesday and then by Anna. The boys were taught by captain culture himself, Savé.

On Thursday afternoon we had a ceremony to welcome in Tui Mali’s new boat. This was a great opportunity for a dress rehearsal for Friday’s big event. I was dressed up in tapa and a huge piece of cloth that was carried by most of the tribe. Having 12 girls in my costume was really nice I have to say. I had to walk very slowing into the Fijian village so that my entourage would keep up. Movement is a tad restrictive when you’re attached to 12 girls.

Earlier that day we had gone on a mission to find materials for our costumes. We used leaves from the duva vine. Savé took us on a rummage through the jungle to find some and then we all got to tie them up to be used around the wrists for the men and around the waist for the women. We got to wear them later that day as part of the boat ceremony we did for Tui Mali’s new boat. The ceremony consisted of drinking grog (now there’s a surprise) until the boat came and we made our way to the beach. While the boat was coming into the shore 3 guys jumped off the boat and swum the last 50 metres or so. We then covered the boat in the huge piece of cloth that I had been wearing earlier. Tevita then offered some grog and Puasa accepted on behalf of Tui Mali and much was said in Fijian in a very fast and loud way by Tevita. We then made our way to outside Tui Mali’s house. His veranda had been done up by Tevita earlier and looked really amazing. We drunk more grog with the boat captain who had come all the way from Suva and Puasa’s son. Then I was invited on to the veranda to watch the guys perform the meke. I hadn’t seen it from such a vantage point before. The girls one looked great as did the boys although there was much room for improvement on the last meke for the boys. We then ate and carried on the grog session. I left after a few hours but team Fiji kept drinking until the wee small hours.

The next morning we had an early breakfast and all got on boats and headed for Malau. There we boarded a bus which took us to Nadori. The bus journey was fun, if a bit dusty, and everyone was in a jovial mood even though team Fiji had very little sleep. They don’t seem to need much. I was excited as I didn’t know what to expect although I knew everyone would be extremely welcoming. When we got to Nadori we were shown to our area. Each district had it’s own covered area with matts and a tanoa. We had our own section as Mali district’s area was full. Almost as soon as we sat down a group of women came over with massive amounts of tea and cake. No one else seemed to be offered any and I’m not sure if that’s because everyone else had eaten already, we were a tad late, or Fijians only offer tea and cake to foreigners. We seemed to be given heaps of tea and cake everywhere we go but I rarely see Fijians eat it themselves. I’ve never eaten so much cake in all my life until I came here.

After tea the meke started. We watched one and then when behind a building to get ready for our performance. I again got a special bit of tapa to wear as chief but it was very minimal compared to the previous day. The girls performed their meke first and the crowd absolutely loved it. You can judge how much they like what you do by the amount of cloth that is given during your performance. Collectively we came away with a huge amount of cloth even after giving loads to other groups. When it came to the boys performance I was really calm and looking forward to it. When you are performing in front of people who just want you to do well and are really happy that you are embracing their culture then you can’t go wrong. Of course you want to do your best but I felt no pressure from the audience. We were warmly received and I felt it was over far too quickly, I loved it. Performing Fijian dance to Fijians is a wonderful way to show your appreciation and love of this beautiful country and people. I felt such an honour to be there. It was a very special day. When the mekes were done, and there were some amazing ones, especially the last group of ladies, the band started playing and people started dancing. Many Fijians would come to us and ask us for a dance, another way of showing their appreciation.

The journey back was great as team Fiji sung their appreciation of the day. When we got back I was very tired and very dusty from the bus trip and everyone had a swim and wash in the sea before getting ready for Roger and Franklin’s leaving party. Macuata day was a day that will live with me for many years to come.
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Meanwhile Tui Mali, Apenisa, relaxes!

David returns to Labasa

from w
I was interested to read in the Tribewanted website that a young (?) man, David Randall, has spent some time on Vorovoro as part of his 'coming home' experience. He was a little kid in Labasa when his dad was a doctor at Labasa hospital. Peceli says he remembers the Randall name but I don't think the doctor was around when I gave birth to our third son at Labasa hospital in mid 1972. My Fijian doctor was absent at the time and I had a very bossy nurse to deliver a boy who was 9 and a half pounds!

Here is Randall's story from Tribewanted.

The local boy returns home
Community → David Randall's blog
Tags:Chiefs Fiji By Kai Viti, ,
Posted 5 days ago
Bula Sia Tribe,

I’ve been on the island for just over 2 weeks now. I was only intending to stay for a week and then explore a bit more of Vanua Levu for the rest of my month in Fiji. I came here to check out my birth place, Labasa, and to discover as much as I could about Fijian culture and life. I left Labasa at the age of 2 and so I have no memories Fiji. I decided to spend a few days in Labasa finding out about the place. I went to the hospital to look around and met with so many lovely people. I was shown my record of birth and many of the nurses told me to say thank you to my dad for his work in the hospital. He was a doctor there in the late 60’s early 70’s. I also visited Vaturekuka, the government complex where we lived. That was beautiful and again I met some really lovely people. I had my first grog session with an Indian family I met there.

It was only when I was in Labasa that I decided to come to Vorovoro. I knew very little about the place and the Tribewanted project but I had signed up to the web tribe a few months before. I was attracted to the fact that it was an eco project and it was so close to Labasa. I only signed up for a week though as I had no idea what to expect. It took around 24 hours for me to put myself up for chief. I felt that this was going to be the best place for me to learn about Fijian culture. Save teaches the meke (traditional Fijian dance), the language and some songs that we can sing around the tanoa. Tribewanted are bringing back many of the traditional ways that have been lost in many villages. Why leave when all the things I want from my trip are here on Vorovoro. Also I wanted to be the first Labasan chief of Tribewanted. So it felt right to extend my stay in Fiji and be chief for a month.

The first 2 weeks were great, learning the meke, some language and having plenty of grog sessions. I also painted one of the compost toilets using stencils in the style of the traditional Fijian tapa. Then last Tuesday we had the chief’s hand over and I was installed as chief of Vorovoro. The day starting with a send off for Ben Keene as he was leaving the island for a few months to continue promoting the project. We then went on the ‘4 peaks challenge’, the first time I had the chance to do it in my 2 weeks here. I loved it, the nature here is gorgeous and I must have taken around 300 photos. When we got back we sat with Save and got the low down on what to do for the chiefs hand over and those presenting their Sevu Sevu got their instructions.

I was a bit nervous during the hand over but I really enjoyed it as well. It was only when Tui Mali left and I then had to sit at the front and was served yagona first that it really sank in that I was now the chief of this island. Team Fiji all shook my hand and welcomed me as the new chief and we had a really good grog session in which Paul, the out going chief, seemed to really enjoy as it was the first time in a month he could move around. It does feel quite strange that as chief you have to stay in one place. I’ll have to learn to make the most out of my wingmen. I know that this month will be a big learning curve for me as I have never done anything like this before, but I am looking forward to the challenge.

Vorovoro story on FijiTV

from w
Go to http://www.fijitv.info/news for September 16th and look for Indepth story on Vorovoro. Five minutes on the eco-tourism venture that is now two years old. Sorry, don't know how to put a video here but you can go to the tribewanted site and they have a link to the fijitv story via Youtube! And, other stories.

Is tribewanted still going strong?

from w
Our niece's daughter is getting married in a couple of week's time on Mali Island so our relatives are very busy in preparation. Maybe some of the Vorovoro eco-tourists will be there at the celebration as the location for the wedding is quite close to them. I was wondering how they were going these days on Vorovoro Island so I clicked on the tribewanted website, and yes, they are going okay. Their appointed chief writes in the blog as follows:

Chief's Update 24.7.08
Community → Mariah Boyle's blog
By Maya, California, USA Posted 1 day ago

Bula sia tribe! So much has happened in the last week! Last Wednesday we celebrated Dan’s (August chief) birthday (organized by Jo, vinaka)with a scavenger hunt, piñata, and murder mystery evening. We all were given parts in a murder mystery and dressed for the parts and started in character over dinner, and after dinner we moved into the great bure where someone was murdered and lots of sleuthing followed. The game was a highlight of the week and something that is still on the island for future tribe members!

Thursday was also a historic night – we held our first ever Vorovoro trial. The accused, Ben (tribe member), Jim (island gapper), and Sosi (Team Fiji), were accused of two incidents of Frog Bombing (placing frogs in beds of tribe members before they went to sleep) that occurred on Tuesday. I was the judge for the trial, we appointed a jury, and Crimestopper escorted the accused. The evening was full of laughter as we heard testimony from the victims, gathered evidence from the audience, and determined that all three were guilty. Tevita and I conferred and decided that the punishment needed to be decided by the big man himself, Tui Mali. On Friday in Liga Levu we asked Tui Mali to decide a punishment for those accused, and he asked the three to come to his house and dig holes for large poles that will hold up his power line, which has recently fallen down. As a show of moral support the tribe will accompany Jim, Sosi, and Paul (nominated to do the work of Ben who left Vorovoro on Monday) and encourage them while sitting in the shade nearby. Look for a blog detailing the entire night to be posted soon by the tribe members!

Friday we were invited to Liga Levu for lunch as we purchased reeds from them, and the money the received was used to buy two new weed cutters for their village. They cooked a feast for us and we meke’d for them to say thank you! The ladies of the village also meke’d for us. The school was released early that day from testing as well so all the kids joined us as well! When we left the village gave us come voli voli trees which is used to weave the mats in the bure, and now we can start making our own mats. The day in Liga Levu was an absolute highlight for the tribe, and another example of how this project is bringing the communities closer together, and providing the villages with revenue.

On Saturday we held the island forum (see forum summary of discussion) and enjoyed the sun. Sunday was another nice day of sunbathing and great meals cooked by talented tribe members!

Monday we had yet another birthday, Jo turned 23! Dan organized an evening of kids games: we all made sock puppets, did face painting, had a piñata, played the chocolate game and jelly bean in flour game, and musical flip flops. It was a great night!

On Tuesday work on the Team Fiji bure roof continued as well as construction on the family bure (more windows and a wooden floor). In the morning we also started snorkeling and mapping the bay, an ongoing projects for the next two weeks. It was a great sevusevu day with Tui Mali in great form, everyone joking around, and a good vibe happening on the grog mat.

On Wednesday we learned the fan meke from Va, started to prepare the leaves for more mats, finished the roof of the Team Fiji bure, and kept working on the Family Bure floor.

The spirit on the island is very high right now and a lot of projects are wrapping up! I can’t believe I’m already at the end of my month as chief, and everyday I learn something new and have more fantastic memories. A big vinaka vakalevu to all those who have participated in this month – either on the island or online.

Moce Mada,
Mariah

Is tribewanted still going strong?

from w, I don't know if this is really a recent post, or they gave up on blogs on their site a month or two ago. Anyway this is about Tevita, community manager on Vorovoro Island.

Tevita's challenge to Fiji

By Jale, Vorovoro, Fiji Posted 5 days ago
(as interviewed and scribed by Adam Pacey)

As the Community Manager, Tevita passionately describes himself as the bridge between Fiji and the world as they visit Vorovoro through the Tribe Wanted project. There is no doubt it is a role of tremendous responsibility but also one which Tevita finds exceptionally rewarding. With his finger directly on the pulse of everything that is happening on Vorovoro Tevita decided he wanted to provide a monthly blog to allow everyone to share in these rewards and hear how he sees and feels the project progressing. Welcome to the first of those blogs.

First and foremost, the most important message that Tevita wants to get across in this opening blog is how strong the community spirit is on the island. That is not the spirit of Team Fiji and the spirit of the visiting Tribe separately, but it is the spirit of Vorovoro as a unified and thriving Fijian village. As Community Manager Tevita is constantly alert to the mood on the island and throughout his community, and he is keen to stress how tremendously proud he is everyday seeing the village pull together as one to work on the ongoing projects and further the two way cultural enrichment that is happening here. It is important to him now to keep this momentum going so all the world can experience it. Just last week, for example, the Tribe and Team Fiji decided for the first time since the project began that they wanted to eat together as one at regular intervals. Sure enough a couple of days later and a delicious banquette was laid on for all in the Grand Bure. It was a great evening, enjoyed by all, but best of all he says it was not prompted by him or by the Tribe Wanted staff it was a community driven intiative that came about through a genuine feeling of togetherness and simply because it felt right. That is the Fijian way. Tevita sums it up perfectly by saying it is just like building a Bure – your foundations must be solid and the rest of the building will be solid and long lasting. On Vorovoro the community spirit is the foundations and he is very happy to report the foundations of Vorovoro are very solid.

Tevita looks upon Vorovoro like any other Fijian community and he constantly aims to ensure that in work, rest and play it operates and functions as such. This is working. It is really working both for the world and for Fiji. There is no greater testament to this than when other Fijian Chiefs visit Vorovoro and are both surprised and impressed by the truly traditional Fijian reception they receive and how accurately Fijian customs are being followed. Throughout Fiji, Tevita has observed the gradual fading and disappearance of the traditions and cultural richness which he and his team is now nurturing so successfully on Vorovoro. Perhaps only 10% of Fijian villages are still practicing these traditions he estimates and goes on to say that if there were a competition on Fijian culture and tradition across Fiji he is confident that Vorovoro would do very well! It is this he says that leads visitors to the island to constantly ask himself and Tui Mali “how did you achieve this?” or to call them ‘lucky’. Tevita’s response is simple … “what is happening here comes from the heart”. He explains that every member of the community on Vorovoro is passionate about what is happening here and is keen to learn and participate, and once that passion is in place then the rest is relatively easy. To learn a Meke, or Kava Ceremony etiquette, or the traditional Fijian greetings only takes moments he says, but their cultural importance is timeless. So the question is not really for him or for Tui Mali, or for Vorovoro but it is for the rest of Fiji … when will the rest of Fiji feel the same passion for their culture again. The people of the world are interested and are learning Fijian culture and traditions now … the people of Fiji should be proud and embrace their tradition and culture too. That is Tevita’s challenge to Fiji.

Everything is moving in the right direction and the coming month has plenty in store. New pathways and landscaping to protect the grass during the dry season, the finishing touches to the new Team Fiji bure, clearing up and raising the new gardens and Fruitopia, amongst many other things are all positive improvements and take us ever closer to being a fully self sustainable Fijian village. Culturally there will also be good progress and Tevita is particularly looking forward to developing and practicing new Meke’s and to the tribe getting to grips with the full Kava mat ceremony which it is planned will be performed for the first time at the Tribe Wanted 2nd Year anniversary.

Finally Tevita says he is very excited about the Fijian language lessons, that started today. As the method by which mankind communicates thoughts, ideas and feelings and, perhaps most appropriately, passes on culture and tradition he has no doubt this will be an important addition to the Tribe Wanted experience.

-----------
And this is something new! I've never seen the Mali women with hula hoops before!

Wanted - a director for Tribe Wanted

posted on from Ben Keene's blog:
Wanted: Vorovoro Project Director Year Three
Home → Ben Keene's blog
Tags:Team Fiji Photos

Have you got wings? A real challenge and a remarkable opportunity to live and lead Vorovoro By Bengazi, Devon, UK
Posted 06 May 2008
Responsible for the Tribewanted: Vorovoro project in Fiji

Role
To lead the project on Vorovoro alongside the team, chiefs and tribe members
To manage budgets and accounts for Vorovoro
To manage marketing and sales for Vorovoro in Fiji

Requirements
Availability in Fiji from mid August 2008 for 12 months
Demonstrate strong cross-cultural leadership experience, preferably in South Pacific involving eco-tourism and/or development work
Demonstrate clinical communication & organisation skills
Instinctive and non-stop social skills with people from all backgrounds & cultures
Comfortable with outdoor, basic lifestyle
Strong interest in sustainable living, culture, adventurous living and people from all backgrounds
Not concerned with a 9-5 work ethic – Vorovoro is 24/7

Reward
Full board on Vorovoro
Travel/ Insurance
Pro rata competitive director’s salary
A unique opportunity to lead the project throughout it’s third ‘adult’ year

Send whatever you think we need to see to choose you island@tribewanted.com
Application deadline 30/5/08

Comments
By Airoy, Pennsylvania, USA
Posted May 12, 2008 4:01am Just a question? Have we considered posting this on sites such as
http://www.greenbiz.com/green-careers
http://www.ecoemploy.com/jobs/

I’m sure there are other websites like this in other countries. Perhaps a good place to spend time finding these networks would be in the South Pacific Proper, in places like NZ, AUS, & FIJI.

Ulai from Vorovoro's blog

from w
I notice that the tribewanted website includes postings from a blog from Ulai who seems to be in England at present. He thinks back to his earlier life and also has comments on how he views the project at Vorovoro. Ulai is a bright young Fijian lawyer who has been around a bit including a stint in Australia helping with Aboriginal land problems.


Still got the dreadlocks Ulai?

There's a program on the BBC at present called 'Paradise or Bust' which tells the story of the eco-village project. There are plenty of short videos on Youtube including one of the Mali District School children singing, one on exploring the reef which includes Fijian string band singing and a bit from the BBC program Paradise or Bust.

Who wants a mobile phone when you live in paradise?

from w
I was surprised to read of the enthusiasm and excitement of some people in babasiga land when they know that mobile phones will now work in the coast areas around Labasa. Who wants a mobile phone when you live in lovely babasiga land anyway? Ha ha. Okay, they are handy for communication but in many cases excessive and just to show off I reckon. Sounds like the upgrade covers those places beside the sea such as Vorovoro, Malau kei Vuo. They didn't mention our beach property Nukutatava but I guess that's included. Anyway Peceli was able to use his mobile from there anyway if he walked up the hill a little bit! And of course the tribewanted visitors on Vorovoro Island might be lounging around the beach, their phones up to their ears! No, they have better things to do liking planting vegetables.

I am a philistine about mobiles. I don't own one and don't want one. I don't talk for long on ordinary phones even, but a friend gave us a hands-free phone as a gift which was nice so we can wander throughout the house and still yack away. It plays 'We wish you a merry christmas' to alert us to its presence so we'll have to change that to the song 'Vorovoro, Malau kei Vuo'!

Well here's the story which has some exaggeration surely which I have put into italics - in today's Fiji Times -
Mobile phones for rural LabasaFriday, January 04, 2008

After years of relying on telephone services, the people of rural Labasa now enjoy mobile phone services. Vodafone managing director Aslam Khan said that was possible after the company commissioned its base station at Korovatu in Labasa last week. Mr Khan said the network provided by that base station would cover around 6000 people from Malau to Kia Island. "The coverage extends from Malau jetty to the Kia Island and all the way to Coqeloa and surrounding areas," Mr Khan said. "Along the route lie some very prominent sites and location of Vanua Levu."

He said areas along that side that now enjoyed the service included Vuo, Vunika, Naleba, Raranibulubulu, Mataniwai and Coqeloa. Korovatu is a renowned picnic spot in Labasa. Ram Sewak, the owner of the picnic spot and long time resident said that would really assist him in his business. He said "the mobile communication would help him manage his business better by ensuring instant contact with suppliers and workers".

"Those who flock the beach will also feel safe with their mobiles handy."

The villagers of Vuo were excited on Friday when they realised that they had finally had mobile coverage. For most of them owning mobiles were just for decoration as it would not function when they were in the village.